The History of the Shirt
The shirt is one of the few garments to have endured through the centuries without disappearing. First a work garment and an underlayer, it became a mark of distinction and then an essential part of the modern wardrobe. Its history also explains some style details that now seem entirely natural.
A story that begins in Egypt
The shirt has a very long history. The oldest surviving shirt, dating to around 3000 BCE, was found in Egypt. Made from linen and exceptionally well crafted, it has wide sleeves that allow the wearer to move freely.
For a long time, the shirt was above all a practical garment, worn next to the skin. It later took many forms: the white-collar shirt associated with stockbrokers, the lumberjack shirt linked to American style, the blouse whose cut borrows elements of menswear in a more feminine line, and the looser, more flowing blouse.
In the Middle Ages: detachable sleeves and courtly gestures
The shirt was then a working garment worn by nobles and peasants alike. Outer garments were expensive and had to be kept for as long as possible. Collars and cuffs, particularly exposed to dirt and wear, became soiled and worn more quickly; they also protected the jackets worn over them.
Between the thirteenth and fifteenth centuries, detachable sleeves were fashionable among women. One tradition tells of a lady leaving a sleeve with a suitor after a tournament: a gesture of favour that became one of the romantic anecdotes in clothing history.
Until ready-to-wear clothing and the washing machine became widespread in the mid-twentieth century, garments were maintained, mended and patched until they were completely worn out. This necessity explains several construction details that have since disappeared.
After the Renaissance: buttonholes and conventions
After the Renaissance, the shirt evolved with the introduction of buttonholes. Before then, it was often a loose, blouse-like garment. One clothing convention has endured to this day: buttons on men’s shirts are generally placed on the right, while those on women’s garments are placed on the left.
The usual explanation is linked to the habits of wealthier households: women were often dressed by their maids, whereas men dressed themselves. The position of the buttons may therefore have made dressing easier for the person helping. This explanation is often repeated, although its historical origin has not been established with certainty.
The half-shirt and the long shirt
Between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries, the half-shirt appeared, allowing people to embellish a shirt considered too plain for an occasion, or simply to cover one that had become dirty. At the beginning of the eighteenth century, the long shirt was fashionable and also served as underwear.
The shirt was not worn on its own: until the end of the nineteenth century, showing one’s shirt was considered improper, rather like walking around in one’s underwear today.
1827: the invention of the detachable collar
In 1827, the detachable collar appeared in the United States. Collars were made from fabric stiffened with starch. Like cuffs, they were particularly exposed to wear and stains. Being able to remove them meant they could be washed separately, the same shirt could be worn for several days, and the garment’s life could be extended.
This thoughtful approach to garment care echoes our own attachment to clothes we keep. We have adopted the same principle for our Chinese dresses. Starched collars are also familiar to fans of period dramas such as Downton Abbey and Peaky Blinders.
Beau Brummell, an icon of masculine elegance
George Bryan Brummell, known as Beau Brummell, died in 1840. An icon of his era and a major figure in dandyism, he profoundly influenced the codes of men’s fashion. His taste for controlled elegance, fine linen and attention to detail left a lasting mark on menswear. We will return to his legacy in a future article.
1845: the French cuff
Around 1845, the double cuff appeared, allowing a shirt to be personalised with cufflinks. Alexandre Dumas describes it in The Count of Monte Cristo. In English, this cuff is called a French cuff, although its origins are generally considered to be British.
1871: the birth of the modern shirt
In 1871, Brown, Davis & Co. filed a patent for a shirt that buttoned all the way down the front, from collar to hem. Previously, shirts were pulled over the head or fastened at the back. This front opening heralded the modern shape we know today.
Late nineteenth century: new collars
The Industrial Revolution and the emergence of new fortunes encouraged a growing variety of styles. The wing collar and the button-down collar, also known as the polo collar, were among the variations that developed during this period. To explore these shapes and how they are worn, read our article on the different types of shirt collar.
The washing machine changes habits
As washing machines became common in homes in the early twentieth century, detachable collars and cuffs gradually lost their practical advantage. They were once again integrated into the shirt and made from softer fabrics. Linen care became easier, and shirts evolved alongside domestic habits.
The 1920s: the pointed collar takes hold
The round collar declined in favour of the pointed collar, particularly in professional circles. By the end of the decade, plain shirts made from a single fabric were also becoming more common. The shirt with a white collar and cuffs nevertheless remained a reference point in fashionable circles.
The Second World War: alternative fabrics
Cotton shortages, as large quantities were diverted to military uniforms, led to greater use of alternative fibres. Nylon, viscose and rayon were among the materials used to make clothing during this period.
The 1960s: the breast pocket and the decline of the waistcoat
In 1960, the shirt breast pocket emerged as waistcoats gradually fell out of favour. Since then, the shirt’s overall shape has changed little, although fashion continues to distinguish French and Italian styles from the American one.
From Mad Men to Wall Street: the changing silhouette
The roomy suits worn by men in the 1960s, as seen in Mad Men, contrast with today’s more fitted cuts, designed to flatter the silhouette. American, French and Italian styles each express a different vision of the shirt and how it should be worn.
The shirt today
The shirt has retained its general shape while adapting to different eras, fabrics and uses. The white-collar shirt, lumberjack shirt, blouse and looser top all reflect both ways of life and changing codes of elegance.
Its history reminds us that a style detail often has a very practical purpose: protecting a jacket, making care easier, saving fabric or allowing someone to express their personality. This combination of function, durability and elegance continues to inspire us at Maison Priam & Lila.
Related articles
- The history of menswear
- The different types of shirt collar
- How to choose a shirt
- A guide to French cuffs
- The history of the double-breasted jacket